12 Things Never to Burn in a Fireplace

Are there really 12 things you shouldn't burn in a fireplace? The answer is yes - basically anything other than seasoned cordwood is a potential hazard. While you and your family are sitting around a cozy fire, think about what you are burning in your fireplace. 

Treated or Painted Wood

Lumber and wood materials that have been painted or chemically treated to resist decay and insects can emit hazardous toxins when burned. This includes construction scraps and most wooden pallets.

These harmful chemicals can accelerate corrosion in your firebox and chimney flue, potentially causing significant damage over time.

Is burning treated or painted wood in the fireplace dangerous?

Yes, it poses serious risks. When burned, these materials release various toxic substances, including arsenic and lead compounds. Exposure can result in health issues ranging from respiratory irritation and skin reactions to more severe conditions like cancer and chronic diseases.

Furniture

Most furniture pieces contain treated and painted components, making them unsuitable for burning. Additionally, furniture often contains metal hardware like nails and screws that can cause injuries during handling, burning, and ash cleanup.

Is burning furniture in the fireplace dangerous?

Absolutely. "Furniture typically consists of various processed wood materials with unknown chemical treatments," explains Nikolin. "When burned, it releases a complex mixture of toxins that can severely impact your health."

Particle Board

While particle board shares hazards with treated wood and furniture, it deserves special mention because "burning particle board is particularly dangerous," warns Nikolin. "The material contains high concentrations of adhesives and chemical treatments that produce extremely toxic fumes when burned."

Is burning particle board in the fireplace dangerous?

Yes, burning particle board poses significant health risks. The chemicals released can cause both immediate and long-term health complications.

Moldy or Rotting Wood

Burning wood that's moldy or decomposing releases fungal spores into the air, triggering breathing difficulties. This wood is also less dense and contains more moisture, producing excessive smoke while generating minimal heat. Additionally, removing such wood can disrupt natural habitats, as decaying trees and fallen logs often house various wildlife including nesting birds.

Is burning moldy or rotten wood in the fireplace dangerous?

Yes, burning moldy or rotting wood can be hazardous. The released spores and bacteria can irritate your respiratory system and eyes.

Dry wood is "checked" or cracked on the ends. 

Wet Wood

Wet Wood

Freshly cut wood or trees with high moisture content that haven't been properly seasoned will produce excessive smoke during burning. This results in dangerous creosote buildup on your chimney walls, creating a serious fire hazard. Such wood is also frustratingly difficult to ignite, which explains why you should never harvest trees directly from campsites for burning.

Is burning wet wood in the fireplace dangerous?

Yes, burning wet wood poses significant risks. Wet or unseasoned wood generates excessive smoke and creosote buildup, creating a serious fire hazard.

Purchase a moisture meter to check moisture content before burning. It should be 20% or less. 

Newspaper and Cardboard

While it's tempting to dispose of old pizza boxes or weekend newspapers in your fireplace, these materials can create persistent embers that float up the chimney. These floating embers pose risks of igniting chimney fires, roof fires, or even wildfires. However, there's one exception: using small amounts of tightly twisted newspaper for fire starting is generally considered safe.

Is burning paper and cardboard in the fireplace dangerous?

Yes. Wood pulp products, particularly in large quantities, tend to produce large flaking embers that can potentially trigger house fires.

Glossy Paper

Like regular paper products, glossy materials such as magazines, gift wrap, candy wrappers, and chocolate boxes can ignite house fires. Additionally, these items contain colored inks that release toxic gases during combustion.

Is burning glossy paper in the fireplace dangerous?

Yes. According to Nikolin, "While they appear to be simple paper products, they actually contain various materials including plastic, glossy or colored inks, and foil. When burned, these materials produce excessive smoke and ash that can clog your chimney, while also releasing toxic chemicals harmful to health."

Plastics and Synthetic Materials

This should be common knowledge, but it bears repeating: never burn plastic materials. These items contain high levels of carcinogens that, when burned, release harmful chemicals affecting not only those in immediate proximity but also individuals downwind who may inhale the smoke.

It doesn't matter what type of plastic material you have—whether it's shopping bags, bubble wrap packaging, plastic bottles, styrofoam containers, or even cigarette butts—these items should never be burned in your fireplace. It's also important to note that many disposable food containers that appear to be made of paper often contain a thin plastic lining.

Is burning plastic and other synthetic materials in the fireplace dangerous?

Yes, extremely dangerous. When plastic materials are burned, they release toxic chemicals and carcinogenic substances that can be hazardous when inhaled.

Dryer Lint

Having previously praised dryer lint for its fire-starting capabilities, I was quite disappointed to discover that it shouldn't be burned in fireplaces or anywhere else. One major concern is that it contains microplastic fibers from clothing—considering that polyester and nylon (both forms of plastic) make up more than two-thirds of modern clothing materials. Additionally, the highly combustible nature of dryer lint makes it a significant fire hazard.

Is burning dryer lint in the fireplace dangerous?

Yes. The synthetic fibers present in dryer lint can release hazardous chemical fumes throughout your home and chimney system.

Charcoal

While it might seem logical to use leftover barbecue charcoal in your fireplace, this practice can be dangerous as it releases high levels of carbon monoxide into your living space. Even with proper fireplace ventilation, your home's air filtration system may struggle to handle elevated carbon monoxide emissions from charcoal burning.

Is burning charcoal in the fireplace dangerous?

Yes. Charcoal combustion produces high concentrations of carbon monoxide, a lethal gas that cannot be detected by smell or sight, making exposure especially dangerous.

Christmas Trees

While disposing of your old Christmas tree in the fireplace might seem practical, it's actually quite dangerous. The wood hasn't been properly seasoned, and evergreen trees and their needles contain high concentrations of fast-burning resin. This can generate extremely high temperatures that may lead to chimney fires or structural damage to your chimney.

Is burning Christmas trees in the fireplace dangerous?

Yes, they pose a serious fire hazard. "The needles can create dangerous sparks and embers that shoot out unpredictably, while burning unevenly and intensely, which often results in dangerous flare-ups in your fireplace," explains Nikolin.

Fire Accelerants

If you're frustrated by slow-starting fires, you might be tempted to use accelerants such as gasoline, lighter fluid, or kerosene. However, these highly flammable liquids can cause fires to escalate rapidly and generate excessive heat that can damage your fireplace and chimney.

Is it dangerous to burn fire accelerants in the fireplace?

Yes, they can cause fires to quickly become unmanageable, putting both your home and chimney structure at risk.

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Marge Padgitt is the owner of Hearthmasters Chimney Service, Padgitt Forensic Investigations, and Hearthmasters Publishing in Kansas City, Missouri. She is the author of "Wood-Fired Heating and Cooking," "Your House is Killing You," and The Chimney and Hearth Pro's Resource book. Website: www.chimkc.com. 

Firewood Allergies? Yes, it’s a Thing.

 By Audrey Elder

The massive chunk of walnut sat nearly a year next to the woodpile before we gave up on the idea of turning it into a new kitchen floor. Our woodpile consists of whatever fallen trees come our way. This particular behemoth was once part of a massive tree that fell on a friend’s farm property with no where to go but my yard. It was finally time for gloves, glasses and a chainsaw. The freshly cut chunks were quickly split into perfectly sized pieces for the woodstove. They smelled wonderful as I stacked them onto the pile, although my nose burned a bit with each whiff I took. Once alit in the living room, my sinuses reacted with vengeance. As it turns out, different kinds of firewood can create allergic reactions for different people. One might notice a sensitivity to oak while I sit on the other side of the room when burning walnut.

There are a large range of allergic reactions or sensitivities that can be brought on by wood including a sinus reaction or rash from touching wood. Nearly all woods have the potential to cause a reaction in some people. Unfortunately, there has been little research done on how different woods can cause a reaction when burned. It is unknown if having a known allergy to a specific wood based on a physician performed allergy test also means you will have a reaction to burning that wood. If you have a known allergy to mold however, make sure you are not burning firewood with mold present. If you have experienced sensitivity to your fireplace or woodstove keep a journal of what type of wood you are burning and if that particular wood is bothering you. If a type or types are confirmed this way try to avoid sitting close to the fireplace or stove or discontinue using that type all together.

It is also important to note that smoke never has a place in the home, it should only be going up the chimney. We often tend to think of keeping our chimney clean for the sole purpose of preventing a chimney fire. Where avoiding chimney fires is an obvious top priority, a dirty chimney won’t allow for a good draft to take place. It makes it harder to start a fire and keep all that smoke where it belongs. If you are still having trouble getting your fire to draft, it could be an issue of negative air pressure or just super cold air. Consider having an outside air supply, draft inducer, or whole house ventilator installed to fix this issue.

So far, walnut has been the only wood I have to avoid burning. I was overjoyed last summer when my husband announced a friend offered him a fallen….oak! An entire winter back in my favorite spot in the house, next to the woodstove was happily in my future. May your home be warm and your sinuses happy!

Masonry Heaters are the Best Option for Heating with Wood

By Marge Padgitt

Look no further than a masonry heater to heat your home during a long cold winter. Use this appliance as a primary or supplemental source of heat, and feel good about it, too, since masonry heaters are GREEN. Masonry heaters have been around for hundreds of years in Europe and are finally catching on in North America and other parts of the world. People needed to heat their homes in an efficient manner in olden times just as today in order to save their forests. Inefficient open fireplaces took too much of their valuable resources, so another method had to be developed. No one knows who the first mason was who came up with the idea of something that would retain heat for long periods of time, then radiate it into the home while using much less wood, but whoever he was he was a genius. 

Masonry heaters have been redesigned and altered over the years by different masons in Finland, Russia, Germany, Austria, and the United States. But heaters all have the same characteristics with complex channels to slow down and trap heat from flue gasses, and a mass of masonry to retain that heat, then radiate it to the living space over a period of up to 20 hours. By the time the products of combustion get to the exit of the flue, the smoke is white or clear, and the particulate emissions are very low. One load of wood can usually provide heating for the average size home for 8-12 hours. Masonry heaters use approximately 1/3 the amount of wood as a high-efficiency wood stove to produce the same amount of heat. Compared to even the best high-efficiency wood–burning stoves on the market today, gas and oil-fired furnaces, and certainly inefficient open fireplaces, masonry heaters cannot be beat. Homeowners may wish to use a masonry heater as their sole source of heat, or in conjunction with another system.

Natural stone masonry heater
by Gene Padgitt

Another benefit masonry heaters offer is that they do not require electricity, gas, or ductwork to distribute the heat. In a properly designed home with an open floor plan and the heater in the center of the home, the heat will radiate evenly throughout. Ideally, heaters are built in new home construction, but they can be added to existing homes as well. If planned in a passive solar home, the masonry mass of the heater will also absorb and radiate heat from the sun. Heaters require a suitable foundation to support the massive masonry, which weighs three to six tons by the time all of the firebrick, block, cast iron doors, dampers, and exterior masonry facing is installed. 

 

Heaters can be enhanced with heated benches to sit on, mantels, wood storage bins, and even bake ovens. Pizza and bread from a wood-fired bake oven has an incredible and unique taste that is not to be missed, and entire meals can be cooked in the oven if desired. An experienced heater mason can not only design and build the right size and type of heater for a home but make it beautiful to look at as well. An exterior finish of soapstone, tile, natural stone, stucco, or brick can make a dramatic statement. Heater masons will work with the homeowner to come up with a custom design that suits the home or use one of many masonry heater kits that are available from several manufacturers (usually incorporating soapstone) in a variety of designs.  

Use of natural non-toxic materials and the renewable resource of wood make masonry heaters the perfect solution for a green home. 

The trade is very specialized, with only a few professional heater masons scattered across the world. Fortunately, most of these masons will travel to do installations. Often several heater masons will help each other out since these are big projects. In days of old, the heater masons kept their trade secret, even to the point of not leaving the room until the heater was finished so no one else could see how the interior was built. At that time, the livelihood of the masons was dependent on this secrecy. The trade is so skilled that the only way to learn is to do hands-on assistance with an experienced heater mason, and that is part of the reason the Masonry Heater Association was formed. The older masons do not want this to become a lost art, so they help train others. The Certified Heater Mason program was developed by the experienced MHA members in order to assure that the knowledge is not lost. 

In the U.S. most people are not yet aware of masonry heaters, so it is a challenge for a heater mason to make a living out of just building heaters. Most heater masons also build other types of projects such as fireplaces, chimneys and outdoor bake ovens. Some are timber frame or log home builders or own brickyards. Most are very aware of the green building trend and are interested in sustainable living. Many heater masons will travel to build a heater because they love doing it, and because they love the satisfaction they get out of building something that is very specialized.

Pricing for heaters is what most would consider being on the high end, and a long-term investment. The average cost a homeowner may expect to pay is from $25,000 to $60,000, with price depending on the complexity of the heater, material costs, and labor.  The expected time to get a return on your money is approximately 10 years. The time to build a completed heater may be more than four weeks, depending on how many skilled craftspeople are working. Many homeowners will elect to be an assistant on the job in order to lower their costs. In some cases, if a heater mason is traveling the homeowner will put him and his assistants up at their house or a local hotel. When traveling the masons usually work long hours in order to get the project done as quickly as possible.

Find out more about masonry heaters, including technical specifications and testing results, photos of heaters, manufacturers, and a list of heater masons, contact the Masonry Heater Association of North America through their website at www.mha-net.org or call the executive director, Richard Smith at 520-883-0191.

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Marge Padgitt served on the board of directors for the MHA and the National Chimney Sweep Guild. She is the author of “Wood-Fired Heating and Cooking.” Marge is president and CEO of HearthMasters, Inc. dba Padgitt Chimney & Fireplace in Kansas City, Missouri. Her husband, Gene Padgitt, is a Certified Heater Mason. Contact her at www.chimkc.com, hearthmastersboss@gmail.com, or 816-461-3665.  
 

 

 

Chopping Therapy

By Audrey Elder

 

That’s right, chopping therapy. Me, a nice warm red and black flannel, my
hiking boots, my axe and wedge. Out to the woodpile I go, find a nice wide chunk of walnut, lift the axe up over my right shoulder…. and whack! I remember why I brought the wedge. Either way, after a full wheelbarrow load of fresh split logs for the fire… I feel better.

Full disclosure here, I own a gas-powered log splitter. That’s not the point. There are just those moments in life that require a break from everything, a little exercise induced endorphins and a zoned in focus on a simple task. For me, there is no better way to achieve this than chopping firewood.

 Imagine this scenario. It’s a beautiful chilly Saturday in October. A crisp cool north wind pours across the yard carrying hundreds of gold and red leaves from summers fading trees with each gust. Inside, a full house filled with the sounds of individual activity. Kerplunk, boink, swoosh, boink, ahh someone is playing a game on their tablet. Someone else is having a lively conversation on their phone. Another is cranking up the volume on the television, this is their favorite part of the movie! You clutch the book in your hand, your eyes roll slightly, the plot has just begun to reveal itself. You count to ten. The words blur as if they refuse to be legible amongst ALL THE NOISE. See? This, this my friends, is when the woodpile calls to save your sanity.  

 It could be a needed break from a frustrating event like trying to put a dresser together that came in a flat box. It could be when your computer decides to update everything the moment you’re about to send the email that was due an hour ago.  Or, in 2020, it could just be because it’s 2020. Whatever it is that brings you to the brink of allowing your inner five-year-old who didn’t get a puppy to show up around any other human, nothing works better than chopping therapy. Not to mention the added bonus of never having to leave your home, spending NOTHING, and actually getting something accomplished.

 The first log that splits all the way through creates an inner celebration. A joy of nearly primal accomplishment. There I stand above my TWO pieces of firewood holding my axe to the sky, steam pouring from each breath into the frigid air as I think about how this act may please my flannel wearing ancestors who chopped wood or froze. Depending on what level of angst brought me to this place, I may keep chopping! I might look down at those two pieces of firewood and think, those are a bit large. I might decide to split each of them as well. I of course negate the wedge with at least the first whack. Even this will provide a place to pound the wedge in. The first piece splits! Ah Yes! I am still dominating this wood pile! The second piece….whack…wedge….whack….wedge stuck…whack….wedge stuck further….wood turned sideways….attempt to push wedge out with axe…axe is stuck….lift axe with log attached and beat log on another log… At this point, whatever has brought me to this place is gone and forgotten. It’s just me and the impossible piece of wood. It’s war and I’m determined to win. So, whether I actually do win and leave pushing my wheelbarrow full of firewood pridefully to the front porch or I end up having the emotional outbreak I likely needed to in the first place, its over. I’m ready to return to the task inside that awaits me. Refreshed, clear headed and completely physically exhausted.*

 These kinds of days end the same way all days do, the sun goes down. We all gather in the living room after dinner to watch a show, cozy and warm as the fire flickers through the glass door of the woodstove. My husband lovingly reaches over and taps my shoulder, “You look like you feel much better now.” I smile with tranquility, “I do feel better dear, much better.”

Chop safely, chop often, and always chop for inner peace. In some odd way, I’m sure this helps make the world a better place.

 

*For the same results in the summertime, spend half an hour trying to start a gas-powered lawnmower.
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Audrey Elder is a free-lance writer and owner of Past to Present Research in Independence, Missouri. She lives on a 14-acre homestead with her husband and a few million honeybees.

 

Types of wood to burn in a fireplace or stove

Choosing the right type of wood and drying it properly is important to the operation and performance of a wood-burning appliance. Green firewood may contain 50% or more water by weight. It produces less heat because heat must be used to boil off water before combustion can occur. Green or wet wood also produces much more smoke and creosote than dry wood. For these reasons—never burn wet wood.

Firewood should always be purchased dry or allowed to dry before burning. The best way to assure this is to purchase or cut it down it at least six months in advance and leave it in the woods, then stack it and leave for another six months so you know it is dry. Leaving the cut wood in the woods for six to twelve months allows the oils to dissipate and any bugs or critters will leave the wood and not travel home with you.

Stack wood in an area that gets a lot of sunlight rather than shade. Orient wood so that the cut ends face the direction of the prevailing wind. In the Unites States wind usually moves from west to east but if you live in a valley it may be different based on warm air rising, so face wood in the direction the deer move.

Be mindful of what your woodpile looks like as the neighbors may complain to the city if it is unkempt, or offer praise your it is straight and neat. If you really want to impress passersby, stack the wood in a cool design (there are some amazing creations on the internet).

The woodpile should be kept off of the ground to avoid rot. This can be accomplished by using bricks, blocks, or treated 4 x 4’s placed  lengthwise on the ground.

Arrange wood with gaps between the pieces so that air can circulate. Stack split pieces bark side up to shed moisture. To support the pile use a purchased holder or standing trees, fence posts, or rebar driven into the ground. Stack in one log thick ricks for faster drying. The old myth about keeping the wood pile some distance away from any buildings to avoid termites and carpenter ants is not true. The queen lives underground and without her the critters are harmless. However, brown recluse spiders do love woodpiles so that is reason enough for me to keep the wood pile at least 25’ from the house. Always use gloves to handle wood to avoid an unwelcome bite.

Be sure to make a roof of some type, whether from a tarp or even a roof built of shingles to keep water and snow off of the wood, keeping in mind that the sides need to be open to allow for air movement. More industrious wood burners may want to build a more sturdy and permanent structure with posts and a roof.

When bringing wood indoors for use, leave it near the stove or fireplace for a couple of days to further remove moisture (keep wood at least 36” away from the opening).
The difference between soft woods such as fir, cedar, or alder and hard wood such as white oak, mulberry, or walnut is density. The heavier hard woods contain more heat per volume, therefore less wood is needed and loading (putting wood on the fire) is needed less often. This is especially important for wood-burning stove users because the burn time is longer.

Some firewood dealers sell "mixed hardwood" or mixed soft and hardwood” firewood. This may or may not be desirable, depending on the proportion of low- density hardwoods that are included., so be sure to ask what types of woods will be in the mix. Softwoods are less deisreable, so the price will be less than for hardwoods.

When purchasing firewood be sure to ask if you are getting a full cord, face cord, rick, or pickup load as the volume varies greatly. A full cord measures eight feet wide by four feet deep and four feet high and is 128 cubic feet in volume. 
   Firewood has been bought and sold this way since colonial times. A face cord, sometimes called a rick, measures eight feet wide by four feet high by depth depending on cut length. Cut length is usually 12—18” long. You may request cut length at the time of purchase to fit your stove.
   A pickup load is generally 64 cubic feet in volume depending on if it is stacked or piled in. A randomly piled load will have less wood content. Ask the wood dealer if he will split the wood for you and if not, you will need to split the larger pieces so they will dry out properly.

Basically, all wood has the same BTU’s per pound, but serious wood-burners use an appliance such as a wood-burning stove or masonry heater burn hardwoods which offer a longer burn time and less time splitting. Hedge and Hemlock are not recommended due to the amount of sparks emitted. Hedge burns very hot and can damage wood-burning stoves. If you must use hedge, mix with other wood types.

To be sure wood is dried to 20% or less moisture content use an inexpensive moisture meter to test it. If no meter is not available bang two pieces of cut wood together. If they sound hollow and loud, the wood is dry. If the sound is a low thud the wood is still wet.

Wood is dry when it is "checked"
 (splits in the wood)

You’ll need an axe, a set of splitting wedges, and a maul in order to split your own firewood. To make the task easier, purchase a manual or hydraulic log splitter ($40—$200), or a gas-powered log splitter ($1,000 +). More serious wood-burnings will want to invest in a good log splitter that will last for years. 

Make kindling by splitting some cordwood up into very small pieces. Dry pine is great for kindling purposes.  Fatwood is a very good fire starter with only 2-3 pieces needed to start a fire using one match. Fatwood is derived from the heartwood or center of pine trees and is loaded with pine resin which is very flammable. Harvest fatwood from the center of pine stumps or purchase from hearth dealers or chimney sweeps.

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Marge Padgitt is the president of HearthMasters, Inc. chimney and fireplace contracting company. She is an industry writer and speaker. Contact Marge at hearthmastersboss@gmail.com. 

Alternative Heating Options Using Cordwood

There is nothing like the warmth and coziness of a hearth fire for a comfortable evening at home.  But with the increase in prices for gas, many people think “energy efficient” first, and “ambiance” last, and have turned to alternatives for heating their homes.

When the energy crisis hit the U.S. hard in the 1970’s, manufacturing companies answered the call for wood-burning stoves with large, heavy, and not very efficient appliances. Today’s options are varied and high-tech. Manufacturers have now had 40-plus years to perfect their art and today's appliances are much improved over their predecessors. Homeowners now have a large selection of heating options which we will discuss here, and hopefully these suggestions will be helpful to you in making the decision to go with the renewable resource of wood and alternative wood heating. 

The Rumford Fireplace– Designed by Count Rumford in the 1700’s, this design has not been improved on to this day. The shallow depth, curved throat, angled side walls, and higher opening, combined with a smaller flue provide much more heat than the standard “box style” fireplace. Compared to a standard fireplace, which produces –30% to +5% in efficiency (meaning most of the heat goes up the chimney), the +40% efficiency Rumford far surpasses its competitor. Don’t expect to heat the entire house, but a Rumford will definitely heat the room it is in plus, depending on the square footage in the area. 

Historic homes are perfect for utilizing the Rumford design, which looks authentic and ads ambiance to the residence, but a Rumford looks great in modern homes, too.  

A new method of “Rumfordizing” existing fireplaces has been developed, where a box-style fireplace is transformed into a Rumford style to gain more heat. Some masons and CSIA Certified Chimney Sweeps are employing this method. Not all masons are trained properly in this method of fireplace building, so find a qualified Rumford builder at www.rumford.com, www.csia.org, or www.midwestcsc.org. Cost range- $8,500—$10,000.

Wood-burning Stoves- Gone are the days of the catalytic combustor, since the new EPA approved “non-catalytic” appliances  are extremely low in emissions.  Today’s wood stoves require less wood to heat the same amount of space, and that translates into savings in the cost of wood, and in your time to load the stove.  Where loading was once required every 2 –3 hours, it is now only needed every 4-10 hours. The addition of an electric built-in blower will push the warmed air through the house.

A wood-burning stove can be installed almost anywhere, provided there is an existing chimney that can be used or an outside wall where a Class A chimney can be installed.  Existing chimneys must be brought up to current standards, and this means the installation of a 6” - 8” insulated stainless steel chimney liner. The flue can only be used for the stove—no other appliances can be attached to the same flue.

Wood stoves come in a variety of styles including standard matte black or a beautiful porcelain enamel finish, and are constructed of heavy steel or cast iron.  All stoves require a non-combustible floor and wall behind the stove, with clearance to combustibles being different with each manufacturer. The old 36” rule no longer applies with the newer models, so more usable space is available in the room. 55,000—80,000 BTU output. Cost range—$5,000—$8,500

Wood-burning Fireplace Inserts- Sister to the wood-burning stove, this appliance is inserted into an existing masonry fireplace. A correctly sized stainless steel flue liner is necessary, with a connection to the wood stove. Most flues will measure 6” - 8” in diameter—some are in an oval shape. Do not install an insert without the required steel flue liner with ceramic wool insulation—and have a professional do the installation. If used without a steel liner, the existing flue that was sized originally for your fireplace will be too large for the new appliance to draft correctly and creosote will accumulate on the flue walls. Usually glazed or tar creosote is the type that occurs in this situation, and since it is highly flammable, it is the cause of many chimney fires.

A wood stove insert will produce enough heat to warm a large area (800—3,000 sq. ft.) , and is extremely efficient—usually in the 70% + range for efficiency ratings.  Most inserts are EPA approved non-catalytic, which means that a catalytic combustor, which requires maintenance, is not necessary. The addition of an electric built-in blower will push the warmed air through the house. Burn well-seasoned hard woods and you’ll be happy with not only the heat your insert produces, but the fewer times you need to load wood.  60,000—85,000 BTU output.  Cost range $4,500—$6,500.

    

Wood-burning Furnaces - Similar to the woodburning stove, but larger and produce  80,000—200,000 BTU’s or more. Many woodburning furnaces may be installed alongside an existing gas furnace (provided a separate flue is available), or outside the home in a shed, or in a barn  Most furnaces have electric fans and use ductwork to distribute the heat throughout the home. 

Either a Class A stainless steel chimney is required; or if using an existing masonry chimney, an approved stainless steel flue liner is necessary. If used with an existing chimney and a tile flue liner, a chimney fire is almost guaranteed to occur. It is extremely important to have a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep or approved manufacturer installer do the analysis of the installation area and the actual installation of the furnace and flue. This is not a do-it-yourselfer project, as there are many critical items that must be taken into consideration including size of flue, location of the furnace, distance of the connecting pipe run, type of materials used, clearances to combustibles, etc. Find an installer at www.csia.org, or ask the manufacturer for help in finding a qualified dealer. 80,000—250,000 BTU output. Cost range -$6,000 - $9,000.

Custom-made Granite Heater by HearthMasters, Inc.

Masonry Heaters– re a pre-cast heater core inside of a brick, stone, or soapstone exterior, and built on site.  It may be also finished on the exterior with tile or clay. The mass will be at least 1760 lbs. and the heater will have tight fitting doors that are closed during the burn cycle. It has an interior construction consisting of a firebox and heat exchange channels built from refractory components. A masonry heater has the ability to store a very large amount of heat, which means that you can rapidly burn a large amount of wood without overheating the house. The heat is stored in the masonry thermal mass, and then slowly radiates for the next 18 to 24 hours.  Loading of wood is only required approximately once every 12 hours. The heater burns the wood quickly and all of the energy in the wood is used so there is no waste.  The heater burns very clean, and practically no emissions are produced so it is environmentally friendly.

This type of heater, designed and used extensively in Europe, is the most efficient appliance available anywhere.  The initial cost is more than other types of heating, but due to the savings into an existing masonry fireplace. A correctly sized stainless steel flue liner is necessary, with a connection to the wood stove. Most flues will measure 6” - 8” in diameter—some are in an oval shape. Do not install an insert without the required steel flue liner with ceramic wool insulation—and have a professional do the installation. If used without a steel liner, the existing flue that was sized originally for your fireplace will be too large for the new appliance to draft correctly and creosote will accumulate on the flue walls. Usually glazed or tar creosote is the type that occurs in this situation, and since it is highly flammable, it is the cause of many chimney fires.

A wood stove insert will produce enough heat to warm a large area (800—3,000 sq. ft.) , and is extremely efficient—usually in the 70% + range for efficiency ratings.  Most inserts are EPA approved non-catalytic, which means that a catalytic combustor, which requires maintenance, is not necessary. The addition of an electric built-in blower will push the warmed air through the house. Burn well-seasoned hard woods and you’ll be happy with not only the heat your insert produces, but the fewer times you need to load wood.  60,000—85,000 BTU output.  Cost range $4,500—$6,500.

    

Wood appliance safety tips:

·         Never install a wood burning appliance in a garage or any area where flammable vapors from  gasoline, kerosene, or other flammable products are stored. 

·         Always have a qualified professional who knows the NFPA 211 Standards do the installation.

·         Keep children and pets away from hot appliances with special gates and guards made for this purpose.

·         Keep the chimney and connecting pipes clean and have them serviced annually by a CSIA  Certified Chimney Sweep (www.csia.org) to avoid chimney fires and improve the performance of  the appliance.  

·         Keep furniture and other flammable objects at least 36” away from the front and sides of the appliance. 

·         Do not burn trash, treated wood, railroad ties, newspaper, or pine trees in a fireplace or wood-burning appliance as toxic fumes and increased risk of a chimney fire may occur. 

·         Burn your appliance hot—this means open the damper fully, provide enough combustion air for it to function, and use dense, dry, hardwoods. 

Internet Resources:

National Chimney Sweep Guild: www.ncsg.org

Chimney Safety Institute of America: www.csia.org

Midwest Chimney Safety Council: www.midwestcsc.org

Masonry Heater Association: www.mha-net.org

National Fireplace Institute: www.nficertified.org

Rumford Fireplaces: www.rumford.com

Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue Association: www.hpba.org

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Marge Padgitt is the CEO and President of HearthMasters, Inc. DBA Padgitt Chimney & Fireplace in Kansas City, Missouri, and has 30 years experience in the chimney industry. She is a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep and an NFI Certified Woodburning Specialist. Marge can be contacted at hearthmastersboss@gmail.com or 816-461-3665. 

Choose and store wood correctly

Choosing the right type of wood and drying it properly is important to the operation and performance of a wood-burning appliance. Green firewood may contain 50% or more water by weight. It produces less heat because heat must be used to boil off water before combustion can occur. Green or wet wood also produces much more smoke and creosote than dry wood. For these reasons—never burn wet wood.

Firewood should always be purchased dry or allowed to dry before burning. The best way to assure this is to purchase or cut it down it at least six months in advance and leave it in the woods, then stack it and leave for another six months so you know it is dry. Leaving the cut wood in the woods for six to twelve months allows the oils to dissipate and any bugs or critters will leave the wood and not travel home with you.

Stack wood in an area that gets a lot of sunlight rather than shade. Orient wood so that the cut ends face the direction of the prevailing wind. In the Unites States wind usually moves from west to east but if you live in a valley it may be different based on warm air rising, so face wood in the direction the deer move.

Be mindful of what your woodpile looks like as the neighbors may complain to the city if it is unkempt, or offer praise your it is straight and neat. If you really want to impress passersby, stack the wood in a cool design (there are some amazing creations on the internet).

The woodpile should be kept off of the ground to avoid rot. This can be accomplished by using bricks, blocks, or treated 4 x 4’s placed  lengthwise on the ground.

Arrange wood with gaps between the pieces so that air can circulate. Stack split pieces bark side up to shed moisture. To support the pile use a purchased holder or standing trees, fence posts, or rebar driven into the ground. Stack in one log thick ricks for faster drying. The old myth about keeping the wood pile some distance away from any buildings to avoid termites and carpenter ants is not true. The queen lives underground and without her the critters are harmless. However, brown recluse spiders do love woodpiles so that is reason enough for me to keep the wood pile at least 25’ from the house. Always use gloves to handle wood to avoid an unwelcome bite.

Be sure to make a roof of some type, whether from a tarp or even a roof built of shingles to keep water and snow off of the wood, keeping in mind that the sides need to be open to allow for air movement. More industrious wood burners may want to build a more sturdy and permanent structure with posts and a roof.

When bringing wood indoors for use, leave it near the stove or fireplace for a couple of days to further remove moisture (keep wood at least 36” away from the opening).
The difference between soft woods such as fir, cedar, or alder and hard wood such as white oak, mulberry, or walnut is density. The heavier hard woods contain more heat per volume, therefore less wood is needed and loading (putting wood on the fire) is needed less often. This is especially important for wood-burning stove users because the burn time is longer.

Some firewood dealers sell "mixed hardwood" or mixed soft and hardwood” firewood. This may or may not be desirable, depending on the proportion of low- density hardwoods that are included., so be sure to ask what types of woods will be in the mix. Softwoods are less desirable, so the price will be less than hardwoods.

When purchasing firewood be sure to ask if you are getting a full cord, face cord, rick, or pickup load as the volume varies greatly. A full cord measures eight feet wide by four feet deep and four feet high and is 128 cubic feet in volume.     

Firewood has been bought and sold this way since colonial times. A face cord, sometimes called a rick, measures eight feet wide by four feet high by depth depending on cut length. Cut length is usually 12—18” long. You may request cut length at the time of purchase to fit your stove.   

A pickup load is generally 64 cubic feet in volume depending on if it is stacked or piled in. A randomly piled load will have less wood content. Ask the wood dealer if he will split the wood for you and if not, you will need to split the larger pieces so they will dry out properly.

Basically, all wood has the same BTU’s per pound, but serious wood-burners who use an appliance such as a wood-burning stove or masonry heater burn hardwoods which offer a longer burn time and less time splitting. Hedge and Hemlock are not recommended due to the amount of sparks emitted. Hedge burns very hot and can damage wood-burning stoves. If you must use hedge, mix with other wood types.

To be sure wood is dried to 20% or less moisture content use an inexpensive moisture meter to test it. If no meter is available bang two pieces of cut wood together. If they sound hollow and loud, the wood is dry. If the sound is a low thud the wood is still wet.

You’ll need an ax, a set of splitting wedges, and a maul in order to split your own firewood. To make the task easier, purchase a manual or hydraulic log splitter ($40—$200), or a gas-powered long splitter ($1,000 +).

Make kindling by splitting some cordwood up into very small pieces. Dry pine is great for kindling purposes. Fatwood is a very good fire starter with only 2-3 pieces needed to start a fire using one match. Fatwood is derived from the heartwood or center of pine trees and is loaded with pine resin which is very flammable. Harvest fatwood from the center of pine stumps or purchase from hearth dealers or chimney sweeps. 

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Marge Padgitt is the publisher of Wood-Fired Magazine, and CEO of a chimney contracting company in Kansas City, Missouri. Her website is www.chimkc.comwww.chimkc.com